If OLD VILLA were a restaurant I imagine it would be something very much akin to Petrelle, and not just for the old-world décor which is charmingly vintage without falling foul of the stuffy and the quaint but also for its ethos. Supper here is a seasonal affair, with produce being purchased fresh from the local market daily, but it doesn’t feel gimmicky in the way that the host of organic/green options that have recently flooded London do, I get the impression that the chef just thinks that’s the best way to do things, and so, voilà. This certain jenesais quoi permeates everything about the restaurant in so many delightful ways, from the Jack Russell puppy that lavished us with affection as we walked through the door to the small stacks of books on each table so that you are never left wanting for entertainment should your dinner partner have to take five.

And then, there is of course, the food. At around €75 per person it is not one of Paris’ cheapest options but quite possibly one of its most exquisite. We started with foiegras, the deliciousness of which was accentuated by just-so warm toast and caramelised onion preserve. For mains, the house speciality of roast beef went to my companion who assured me it was one of the best he had had. I on the other hand opted for the duck breast with roasted fresh figs the mere thought of which is making my stomach rumble as I write. All dishes are accompanied by a selection of seasonal vegetables that were rich in taste and texture, living up to their market fresh badge. I have to confess that not being a desserts person I couldn’t rate the crème brulée with authority but can only tell you that the plate was practically licked clean.

But, surely, you ask, there was a flaw? The wine perhaps? Alas, it was faultless, all was washed down with one of the best Burgundies I have had for a long time in terms of quality and price.

Go, enjoy, ruminate.

Restaurant Petrelle, 00 33 (0)1 42 82 11 02, 34 rue Petrelle 75009 Paris.